Calculating liner size and dimensions. I suppose I could put a pond calculator on here, but I've found that it's easier to play with design changes if you know how the size was calculated in the first place. Even if you plan on putting in a concrete pond, liner under the concrete is a big plus at preventing leaks when the ground shifts and cracks the concrete. Which in many parts of the country, especially Texas, it will.

• A tape measure, a can of spray paint to permanently mark your design, and a garden hose to rough it out with. Measure your dimensions by farthest distance across. Recommended depth for North Texas: 30 inches, 24 inches minimum Plant ledges don't add much to liner use, as their area would be covered anyway. I use straight vertical sides with plant ledge steps, because they are the safest and easiest to maintain. It slightly increases liner use, but having slid down a few sloping ponds, it's worth it. Liner is sold in 5 ft increments, so aim toward measurements like 8x13, which with a 30 inch depth, would take a 15 x 20 liner. Depth is measured up one side of the pond, down the other, plus a foot at either edge so you can anchor your liner. To reduce digging, and keep runoff out of the pond, we usually go up 4 inches on the sides with liner, and use brick or stone to bring the liner OVER, so the water level is actually above ground. Since the ground will settle with time, this system greatly lengthens the time between redos and edge adjustments. It adds to material cost, but keeps pesticides and fertilizers out of your pond. Your waterfall and/or stream will add to the liner required. Yes it is now possible to seam liner, and we routinely add on a second liner when the falls are very high, but is that a project you want to get into? If you plan a very tall falls, it might be worth the savings to learn to seam liner. Otherwise adjust your liner size so that you have liner extending all the way UP the waterfall. Because whether you use mortar or other sealants, your waterfall WILL leak. It's a given. Especially if it is very tall. Mortar will crack. And a "pressurized leak" when water is run past a crack removes many times the water of a simple pond liner puncture. Can you imagine taking your waterfall apart to repair it? Or hiring someone to do so?
• Underlayment helps prevent liner punctures from tree roots and sharp stones that may work their way in over time. Not a guarantee, but a worthwhile investment. (and yes, I am a veteran of using old carpeting, but underlayment is tougher. Buy your pond shears at a hardware store, your wife's sewing scissors cost too much to replace after the job is done. And underlayment dulls blades.)
• OK, you're going to have a pump - how much pump do you need? In Texas, with many 100 degree days per year, I like a 3 to 1 ratio. I want to turn the pond over 3 times per hour, splashing through air cools the water, which helps prevent algae problems.
• You are going to have to send the water somewhere. Your pump output size and overall design are your guide for plumbing - whether it is pvc, flex pvc, or tubing. If you are ordering from us and have any questions, please drop us an email.

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